Published with permission from LuxuryWeb Magazine
During a major wine exposition in New York City, dedicated to Barolo and Barbaresco varieties and aimed at promoting tourism in Piedmont, I engaged with several regional dignitaries. Amid our conversations, an intriguing whisper emerged: The esteemed and innovative Italian chef, Davide Scabin, might be embarking on a fresh gastronomic journey with the launch of a new establishment.
The closure of his acclaimed Combal.Zero (pronounced combal dot zero) in 2020 due to the pandemic left a notable void in the gastronomy scene.
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I had the privilege of meeting Davide Scabin, the mastermind and leading chef of Combal.Zero, back in 2005 during a press tour in Torino, ahead of the 2006 Olympics. To this day, he remains an iconic figure in Italian culinary arts, heralding a revolutionary era with his inventive approaches. Our subsequent visits in 2010 and 2016 only reaffirmed his exceptional talent, leaving us continually astounded by his culinary creations.
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Culinary genius
Chef Scabin’s culinary philosophy revolves around “concept cuisine,” which envisages the restaurant as a stage for theatrical expression. His culinary genius is evident in his seamless fusion of traditional Piedmontese flavors with avant-garde cooking techniques, breaking down and reimagining ingredients in novel ways, such as deconstructed pizzas and cyber eggs.
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This journey began in 1994 when he opened his first eatery, Combal, in Almese, Turin, eventually leading to the birth of Combal.Zero within the prestigious Castello di Rivoli in 2000. Here, his creative freedom flourished, giving rise to an array of innovative dishes.
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Throughout the years, Combal.Zero garnered international acclaim, securing a coveted spot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list and achieving numerous accolades, including two Michelin stars. The establishment, nestled in Piazza Mafalda di Savoia within the Rivoli Castle, now a contemporary art museum, became a culinary sanctuary, offering diverse tasting menus that showcased Scabin’s remarkable flair and creativity.
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The legacy of Combal.Zero resonates beyond its physical locale. Our dining experience, amidst the backdrop of an art museum, was unparalleled. The adaptability and attentiveness of the staff to dietary restrictions, coupled with a full house of eager diners, underscored the restaurant’s esteemed reputation.
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From the cybereggs adorned with caviar to the delectable deconstructed Spaghetti Margherita and beyond, each dish represented a testament to Scabin’s ingenious artistry.
Our indulgence in this culinary haven spanned over five hours, a testament not only to the exquisite menu but also to Chef Scabin’s fascinating insights into his life and gastronomic philosophy. The prospect of him opening a new restaurant is a beacon of hope for the culinary world, promising the revival of his unparalleled talents.
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