Long before spices filled kitchen shelves around the world, they traveled across oceans, shaping trade routes, cultures, and cuisines. Pepper, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, and cardamom brought merchants to India’s shores and became interwoven with the country’s culinary identity. Today, those same seasonings continue to tell stories through the food of Bombay Chowk on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.
At the heart of this restaurant is Executive Chef and partner Assis Goes, who grew up in Goa — India’s tropical coastal state known for its unique blend of Indian and Portuguese influences. His love of cooking began at age fifteen as he watched his sister prepare family meals. Years later, after training in hotel management, working in Indian restaurants, and opening Ruchi Indian Cuisine in Mount Laurel, New Jersey, Goes created Bombay Chowk to preserve the flavors and traditions of his homeland.
The soul of his cooking lies in the spices. Goes handcrafts many of his own blends, some containing as many as twenty-seven ingredients. The result is not simply heat, but layers of flavor that unfold gradually, leaving a lasting impression. Although I have enjoyed Indian cuisine for years, Goa’s regional dishes were a delightful surprise — complex, aromatic, and deeply memorable.
The menu celebrates Goa’s rich culinary heritage. Recheado seafood and Balachao reflect centuries of spice trading and Portuguese influence. Xacuti, a fragrant curry of roasted spices and coconut, captures the depth of Goan cooking, while Goat Sukha and Jaffna Crab Curry showcase the region’s love of bold yet balanced flavors.
Among Chef Assis’s favorite dishes are vindaloo and Xacuti. Another amazing dish is Chicken Cafreal, a beloved Goan specialty marinated with fresh herbs, green chilies, garlic, ginger, spices, and vinegar. Its vibrant green color and bright flavors tell the story of Goa’s multicultural history in every bite. He tells me that it can also be prepared with fish or vegetables.
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No visit is complete without Bebinca, Goa’s treasured layered coconut and egg custard dessert. Prepared by Goes, who is also an accomplished pastry chef, each layer is baked separately, creating a dessert that generations of Goan families have enjoyed during celebrations and holidays.
Designed by Goes himself, the restaurant draws inspiration from the palaces of Jaipur, reflecting India’s renowned tradition of hospitality.
Like the spice routes that once connected distant lands, Bombay Chowk connects past and present. Through every carefully-seasoned family recipe, Assis Goes shares a taste of Goa’s living history — one that lingers long after the meal has ended.
Bombay Chawk’s menu has an extensive selection of other regional Indian cuisines as well, including Halal food. Visit the restaurant at:
1378 1st Avenue, New York, NY 10021
https://www.bombaychowk.com/ phone: 212-249-4111
Chicken Cafreal
Recipe by Executive Chef and part-owner of Bombay Chowk, Assis Goes
Ingredients (Serves 4)
- 1½ pounds skinless chicken thighs or drumsticks
- 1 bunch fresh cilantro
- 5–6 green chilies
- 6–7 garlic cloves
- 2-inch piece of fresh ginger
- ½ teaspoon turmeric powder
- 8 whole peppercorns
- 1-inch cinnamon stick
- 4 cloves
- 1 teaspoon cumin powder
- 2 teaspoons poppy seeds
- 2 tablespoons vinegar, divided
- 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
- Oil, for cooking
- Lemon wedges, for serving
- Roasted or fried potatoes, for serving (optional)
Method
- Pat the chicken dry and make a few shallow slashes in each piece. Rub the chicken with 1 tablespoon vinegar, the ginger-garlic paste, and 1 teaspoon salt. Let it rest for 30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, place the cilantro, green chilies, garlic, ginger, turmeric, peppercorns, cinnamon, cloves, cumin powder, poppy seeds, and the remaining tablespoon of vinegar in a blender. Add a little water, if needed, and blend into a smooth green paste.
- Coat the chicken thoroughly with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours to allow the flavors to penetrate the meat.
- Heat a little oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the chicken pieces and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add the remaining marinade and continue cooking on low heat until the marinade thickens, dries slightly, and clings beautifully to the chicken.
Finish with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and serve hot with potatoes and lime or lemon wedges on the side.
